Ouch. A world of pane.

Here it is, on the second or 1st floor (depending on your cultural background) of the grey house.

It´s not very schipperke friendly and has a less than perfect parking situation but it´s a possibility. Breakfast with T was grand though (Hi T!).

Still no news on the job front, mind. It´ll come together soonish. And today it´s not raining so I might get to go out and find things to photograph. I just shoved some up on Flickr that are the result of me moping in the car while Sita sprang into action and there’re a couple of shots in the tunnel to Alameda with the camera set to “Fireworks”…

Pictures of the Wedding Ceremony here…
and increasingly blurred pictures of the Reception here…

The house is looking like a home. Albeit a huge home. Stuart enquired as to why we{d need 3 bathrooms, and he may have a point. Basically, for a hundred bucks extra per month you can have a much bigger house than you´d get with an apartment and we´re in a grand area and you can walk to everywhere and there´s public transport and a roof terrace thing and and and. No can´t really justify the 3 bathrooms. Technically they´re 2.5 anyway.
Maybe Internet by Friday hopefully…
I can{t upload to flickr from this interweb cafe place, so once the FTP thingy{s finished, there{ll be some photos of our recent adventures here. And finding all the slashes and brackets for that hyperlink was nowt too easy… Anyroad, skype us soon. All the best, gwyn

I’ve been mightily impressed by the efficiency of TelMex’s DSL service. Ordered it Monday morning, modem arrived Tuesday and plumbed in by Thursday. I’d’ve had it going two hours earlier too but I had to ring the help desk as it didn’t like my password (beautiful renditions of ‘Octopus’s Garden’ and ‘Oh, Darling’ on hold though).

The phases have been pretty much: travel 1700 miles, find a house, meet up with old friends, fill house with furniture, get DSL & cable, get studying/working. We’re entering the last stage there. But over the last week or so have really got to know the city well just from running errands. Last time we were here (2 years ago) and it was all public transport, and when I was here in 1998, even moreso. Driving is a lot easier than it was made out to be. The only real challenge is from the whole tope (speed bump) vs traffic lights thing. One obviously on the ground and ready to put your steering and suspension out if hit at over 10 mph and the other hanging stupidly high and keeping your vision off the ground. If you’re looking for street signs as well, that puts another hazard in yer way. Yet I managed to drive with a flat pack office desk, 4 plastic chairs and a table from Plaza del Sol to our house in rush hour yesterday, so all’s well. Maybe I’ll add ‘Guided Tours’ to my already eclectic business card.

Plenty of room for visitors, book your flights to Guadalajara now and we’ll pick you up at the airport… It’s still gorgeous weather too.

Skyped me folks yesterday, and was informed that Dad had made another foray into photoshopping. I’ve got this creation of his as my wallpaper for now.

El Arenal is a sleepy little town on the way to Tequila. It’s also where the jimadores albureros were from, so yesterday I went to deliver them the photos. They weren’t there, obviously. It was 1pm ish and they were up to their elbows in agaves I expect. The matriarch of the family was there, however, and after a fair amount of explaining that I wasn’t trying to sell her anything she was all smiles. I had a quick wander around the town, there’s more to it that you see from the main road. The Guadalajara-Tequila railway passes through it and it has a nice traditional town square and church replete with its neon crosses on the spires. Something I hadn’t noticed before, but thanks to the zoom on me camera is that the neon crosses also have lightning conductors. So much for faith… He helps those who help themselves avoiding relampagazos I s’pose.

SuperNova, a fellow Flickero wrote me a nice email about his memories of the place, specifically a place to get drunk cheaply: Here’s a rough translation… (proper translations cost 50 centavos a word for the record)

Hi Gwyn:

In the interview that Sita did with us the other day I mentioned that my family used to go and buy our tequila in Arenal. I see you’ve been there. If you pass by there again, go to this place, it’s very peculiar. Outside there’s a shop where they sell soft drinks and snacks. You go through the side of the shop and there’s a patio with tables. At the back there they sell chicharron de puerco (glorified pork scratchings) and hot salsa. They let you sample their tequila, but they’re so generous that you can refill your glass as many times as you like. And that’s what people do: arrive, buy soft drinks, snacks, ask for a “sample” of tequila in their glass, then mix their drinks and enjoy the afternoon/evening. They keep asking for more “samples” and there’s no charge. They sell tequila in gallon bottles (with no label) and in normal bottles (with labels).

Then details follow on the name of the place and how to get there. If you’d like to know more shoot me an email and I’ll pass on the directions. Far be it from me to bring unwanted attention to what sounds by all standards a fine institution.

Suffice to say I think we’ll be going back. Anyone fancy being the designated driver?

Just ask Mrs. Lisk

Did he even study for this exam? (c) Gwyn’s History School Report, 1988

The sad thing is I did. Anyroad, I’ve been all over the interweb and in and out of books researching the history of the Royal Inland Road and also listening to the Top of the Pods podcast (I even got me name read out on it the other day. And it has upwards of 1600 listeners…). So here is the natural conjunction of those two pasttimes: my
Top 10 historical things I’ve learnt about El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro:

10. The whole thing about Moctezuma thinking (Conquistador) Cortes was Quetzalcoatl- their lightning god- returning was probably a convenient myth made up by the priests to showcase once again that God was a Spaniard.

9 Guadalajara was founded in 4 separate places. Injuns was the usual excuse for upping camp and starting again down the road.

8 Guadalajara is named after renowned sadist/explorer Nuo de Guzmán’s home town in Spain.

7 Nomadic Indians were a lot harder to fight than the settled ones, hence the 40+ year Chichimeca War from 1550 to 1590ish. ‘Chichimeca’ is what the Aztecs (not the most peace-loving of nations) named them. It means, depending on which source you use, ‘of dog lineage’, ‘language of dogs’, ‘dog people’. Basically sons of bitches…

6 The camino was originally used for sucking all the mineral wealth out of Zacatecas and surrounding area and supplying them with vittles from Guadalajara. Cos the land round them parts weren’t none too fertile.

5 The Chichimecas found it very easy to attack these convoys and used their impressive bow and arrow skills to take out the muleteers and who they reckoned were atrespassin’ on their land. Hence the swift change of route to go via San Miguel de Allende to Mexico City and stay well away from Gwod.

4 The Chichmecas only started playing nicely when the Spanish/Mestizos stopped attacking and enslaving them and started trading trinkets and baubles instead. Half Chichimeca/ half Spanish Miguel Caldera spearheaded the operation of ‘Paz por compra’ (peace by purchase) which replaced the previous tactics of ‘Guerra a sangre y fuego’ (War of blood and fire, or more roughly, shock and awe…)

3 Juan de Oate extended the route from Zacatecas up to Santa Fe, New Mexico once the Chichimecas had calmed down a bit. But he still had troubles when he had to finance the whole thing and there wasn’t much in the way of gold/ silver/ docile natives to find. His brutal reprisals in Acoma at his mutinous men and indignant indigenous peeps by cutting off feet and suchlike made him few friends, even the Spanish Virreyes stripped him of all kinds of titles and fined him.

2 The Camino Real was later important for all kinds of historic events. Which I’m still getting to… Independence, Revolution, Cristero War. And ting.

1 Wikipedia is more useful than any other site on the interweb for historical research. If I earned a living wage, I’d donate… I read the founder’s personal appeal, and he says it’s there for ‘the child in Africa who is going to use free textbooks and reference works produced by our community and find a solution to the crushing poverty that surrounds him.” And I’m sure if he’d pondered it further, he’d have continued ‘and impoverished Brits trying to research background material for a documentary of trinational importance in Mexico”.

And also, thanks, Amy, the latest Guestmappee who’s no longer in manateeville but NYC with a predilectation for audience participation in Comedy Central satirical news shows.