Yucatán chair
Spot the gecko on this traditional twin chair set in Valladolid in Mexico’s Yucatán
Spot the gecko on this traditional twin chair set in Valladolid in Mexico’s Yucatán
Okay, I admit it, I forwent my vegetarianism for a week…
There’s more street art than you can shake a piñata at in Ajijic, Jalisco on the shore of Lake Chapala. Thanks largely in part to a large group of relatively well off upper North American retirees and local artists.
I just got asked to write a bit about our time in Mexico for a blog on “Learning to Live in Mexico“. Here’s what I wrote:
What prompted you to move to Mexico?
My wife’s a sociology grad student and is writing her PhD dissertation on “How Tequila became Mexico’s national drink”. Her research naturally led us to Jalisco, Mexico, home of Tequila and also the place we met 10 years ago when I was studying as part of my undergraduate degree in Spanish. We thought we’d only be there for a year but managed to extend the stay after she won various grants and scholarships.
What was the biggest thing you had to adjust to in Mexico?
To be honest, I feel just as comfortable in Mexico as where I grew up in the UK or have lived in the US, if not more so. It’s actually quite hard to think of anything that really needed adjusting to.
Witnessing levels of poverty absent or hidden in other countries, like kids of 7 selling chewing gum on the streets or flowers in bars late at night is something you never fully get used to and there are constant reminders of the huge divides and contrasts of a modern Mexican city like Guadalajara. That would be the major thing, and everyone has their own way of assuaging their first-world guilt.
On a more prosaic level though, some people take a while to get used to the food, I never had any problems and ate food from street vendors almost every day (the trick is to look for places with queues of locals). Drinking bottled water was new to me and having the water guy deliver gallon bottles every few days was odd at first but it’s not exactly life-changing. Driving can be tricky at major intersections, but despite Guadalajara’s ever rising levels of traffic, it’s still nowhere near as dangerous/ frustrating as it is getting from A to B in the SF Bay Area. Paying tolls to use decent motorways does take some adjusting though. If you’re planning a long journey you’ll need a lot of cash handy to pay the tolls for the extremely modern, well-equipped roads. However you can plan ahead with a handy new web tool from the Transport Department’s website that tells you how much the charges will be.
If you had to leave Mexico and go back to your old lifestyle what would you miss most?
The people. A more welcoming, genuine, friendly and fun bunch of people you’d be hard pressed to find. I was welcomed into many homes, shown so many local events, foods, drinks, sights. Everyone has ideas of what to see, where to go and also show an interest in where you’re from and your own culture. I already had a few good Tapatian (from Guadalajara) friends when I arrived, but met many new people who still keep in touch 5 months after we left, offering us places to stay on our next visit (hopefully soon).
I also miss pay-as-you-go cell phones… you buy your fichas (credits), use them, recharge them. The way things should be… None of this dollar a day use it or not malarkey…
What advice would you give to someone considering moving to Mexico?
Make an effort to meet people & learn Spanish. There are all kinds of classes, events, forums and suchlike where you can make your stay infinitely more fun. I met a ton of people via the photo sharing site flickr.com and went on phototours with them to places off the beaten track with local guides and had a great time in cantinas and bars afterwards talking about Mexico and photography. There are also ex-pat sites such as chapala.com where you can meet folks, learn about local events and ask questions. Blogging and commenting on other people’s blogs is also a great way to make your friends at home jealous and a good way to meet folks in the area. I also signed up for seminars and classes on computing (PHP) and photography which were great for meeting people and learning useful things.
Also, buy a cell/mobile phone on day one. It’ll set you back about 40 bucks then you just recharge it with credits. It’ll be handy for not getting lost, enquiring about housing/accommodation, keeping in the loop with friends about what’s happening, meeting people, being ready for any transport breakdowns and all the usual… You name it…
Above all though, move on from considering moving to Mexico and just DO IT!
Need more persuading? Here’s a post on my Top 7 things to do in Guadalajara.
Mop. Moppity mop.
Loved this graffito in Oaxaca (I want to write something but I don’t know what). I want to post it everywhere as it captures a feeling I regularly get.
Today we might finally sit down with a calendar and work out how this summer is going to happen. There’s a lot to sort out, and I keep getting asked for dates for everything. Hopefully we’ll sort it out today so I can give more useful answers.
Read More “Quiero escribir algo pero no sé qué”
I may have mentioned we have 4 bathrooms in this here mansion, anyway, last night they were all for nowt cos the water stopped. It was coming in from the street OK, ‘cos the little triangle was turning round on the meter, but the tank on the roof was empty and wouldn’t respond to gentle prodding at midnight. So Jose and I went to inspect the pump, which can’t have been working properly. Jose wrapped a towel around his hand and removed one of its fuses to look at, only giving himself a minor electric shock. I tripped the whole house off and took out the other one… Anyroad, it seemed like one of them was buggered. So I resigned myself to a trip to the Tlapalerias of Santa Teresita to get new fuses this morning. Overnight, somehow the tank’s full up again and that’s with no pump, so either there’s an elaborate fake pump system or there’s enough pressure from the street to fill the tank on the roof, but the water can only flow freely through the pump when it’s turned off completely. Please write your Mexican plumbing tips in the comments, and bear in mind the Spanish for pump is bomba.
As for the plans for yesterday, I got most of them done except agaveweb.com and the advertising. But they’ll happen today, mark my words. One of the highlights was filling in an application form for the job of “Correspondent” at the English school. Among the questions on the sheet:
What primary school did you go to? Its address, the years you were there, and what qualifications did you receive. If Kingston St Mary V.C. Primary school gets any phone calls from Mexico, you’ll know why.
What’s your sister’s name? What does she do? Where does she live? How old is she?
Have you ever belonged to a union?
Do you belong to a sports/ social club?
How old’s your mum?
Attach a recent photo here…
I took a photo of the app sheet, if you don’t believe me. Hopefully they won’t pass it on to the Mexican INS, although I was explicit that my visa was a tourist one and that I just wanted to know my options…
In other news, Ed from Taunton/Bristol/Plymouth (depending when you met him) might be coming over for Xmas. He’s in Belize right now, follow his Latin American travels here.