Chambeandole

It’s bean a weird couple of days in the office. Like a bad episode of Terry and June whereupon we have to hide certain clients from other clients, because they’re in different political parties. Making sure the computer doesn’t show one party’s logo when someone from the other party comes bursting through the door. Talking in code and making wild gesticulations, still it’s all part of the fun of the 2006 elections. Anyroad, suffice to say blogging’s going to be a bit sparse these next few days.

100_6897For the rest of the Zacatecas/ Aguascalientes trip it’s going to be a stream of consciousness: Tour, town center, La Bufa, Teleferico, Mines!, dinner at a french place, power nap, bullring-cum-hotel, aqueduct, cantina II, new drunks, scale model of how mines work produced at the bar, v. rare meat, hotel… then next day: quick recce, breakfast, Rene’s here too!, Aguascalientes, Posada museum, murals, Tonala, glasses, home.

Personal highlight: the friendly locals with their scale models.

Two nights in Zacatecas- part 1- UPDATED

Friday- Day 1:

100_6662So we left early afternoonish on Friday filled up with Pemex’s finest and hit the toll road to Zacatecas. I’d bought a map in Sanborns which seemed to suggest that the more direct, one-lane route would be better but after a brief poll at Plaza Bonita, the pay-as-you-drive route seemed safer and faster. Sure enough before we knew it we were breezing through el Gran Tunal (what the Spanish called the vast area filled with tunas (prickly pears)) at breakneck speeds listening to all manner of podcasts. The fares were pretty hefty and I’d’ve been more accepting of them if I’d known they weren’t going to spend this cash on signs saying ‘Do not leave rocks in the middle of the road” every 20 kms. 100_6931Who leaves rocks in the middle of the road? And will the kind of people who do it be able to read signs telling them not to? Aside from that the landscape was fantastic all the way, straight two or one-and-a-half lane highway through desert landscapes with huge cacti and other flora. Occasionally you’d see fauna too, but mainly of the roadkill variety… Another thing to watch for if you’re driving on a straight highway through Mexico, is to cover your left arm. I had a shocking case of trucker’s tan after 3 hours odd of radiation…

100_6922We arrived at 6ish and blimey, what a place. You enter through the relatively modern Guadalupe, Zacatecas then suddenly get to Zacatecas, Zacatecas which welcomes you with non-stop ornate architecture, fountains, aqueducts, statues and you name it all in the local pink stone (cantera). It’s like suddenly arriving at a mixture of Seville, Guanajuato and Santiago (Chile) all at once. Various strict regulations on what you can and can’t do with your house mean that even the omnipresent OXXO’s (Mexico’s Spar/7-11) blend in… Sita navigated us to a hotel (La Condesa, $200/night, 3.5 Lulus ) and after dumping our stuff we set out to find a cantina…

Zacatecas- Panorama
View from our hotel

100_6685Finding a cantina took us through the centre of the city as the sun began to set and you could watch the cantera take on different shades as you went. As it got darker the UNESCO-funded floodlights lit up the facades of the endless buildings and sights, from the cathedral right up to ‘La Bufa” on top of the hill overlooking the city. La Bufa is the old Spanish word for some kind of entrail or other, because from certain angles if you’re extremely hungry after crossing the desert it looks vaguely like something you might put in a stew. It makes a change from the anthropomorphic names they used in the States, (see Tetons) , ah, les Francais…

100_6730We eventually happened upon a cantina with swing doors (they’re the best) called La cantina de refugio or reforma or descanso or somesuch replete with pictures of old Zacatecas and full of very welcoming regulars. No sooner had we ordered our Mezcal (we’re not in Jalisco anymore…) and Coronas than we were asked where we were from and got chatting about 70s English prog-rock. Like you do… One of our new friends was an artist originally from Yugoslavia and t’other a Zapatista union lawyer. To prove his credentials, the artist did a cartoon of us on a napkin. Sarita was looking the other way chatting to someone else so the similarity is fleeting. I like to think I look nothing like the one he did of me. And I also learnt, if you’re going to be drawn for 90 seconds. It’s best not to keep doing something you don’t want in the picture. Stuffing your face with crisps for example… I’ll scan it and post it later. Anyroad, we were invited back to the artist’s house who had a gorgeous view of the cathedral, now fully lit and an extensive CD collection. We stopped for some beers, then he gave us some of his art and persuaded us to follow them round the city to take in more sights.

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Through these two well connected Zacatecans we got into the theatre and met some of the musicians who’d played there. We ducked and dived through various little callejones and got to Las Quince Letras cantina. It’s called the 15 letters because there’s 15 letters in ‘Las Quince Letras”. We were starving by this time but managed a round or two as everyone’s communication skills slowly waned. We arranged to meet the next day at the same time and went to a restaurant recommended by everyone even though it was practically empty and ordered our meal. My filet mignon wrapped in bacon wasn’t half bad, nor the avocado and shrimp started. 100_6762Sita made the mistake of asking for a cactus based dish and wasn’t too impressed. Cacti are not for eating, if you ask me. Basically the only way to prepare them is to boil them until they stop tasting like cactus. Again, this is fine for SAS style survival handbook territory, but if you’re in a restaurant stick to food stuffs which evolved to be eaten not to survive drought and to repell predators…

100_6760Stumbling home from the restaurant at midnightish felt a lot like stumbling round Seville because of the lighting, but a lot safer. We found the posada, crashed into bed and watched the latest LOST on my laptop. NB. We didn’t touch the interweb for almost 3 days, and somehow it got along without us. The laptop was along purely as a photo repository.

Shall finish this later… photos round flickr in the interim…

Quick post before ADVENTURES!

Typical that a mountain of work falls on my lap just before making plans to go sightseeing this weekend. I stayed late yesterday doing as much as I could for various people. There’s graphic design, websites and translations all on the go and today we’re driving to Zacatecas. We’ve got someone looking after the house though. With a big stick. All you English-speaking, net-savvy burlgars. So there… Posts and pictures will be forthcoming but there may well be blog silence for a while… We haven’t got any decent road maps of the area north of Guad, so we may end up in Aguascalientes if the navegation doesn’t go to plan. Anyway, as per usual, you’ll read all about it here. Have a lovely weekend all : )

Oh and Feliz Cinco de Mayo if you’re in the States right now. It’s not a big deal in Mexico itself. Wait for September…

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Aldo’s photos from Tuesday coming soon…

Chiste tapatio cortesia de Fernando

Posts in my native tongue to return “pronto”…

Estaban dos nios jugando fútbol en un parque en Guadalajara cuando uno de ellos es atacado por un feroz perro “Rotweiller”.

Pensando rápido, el otro nio arranca rápido una tabla de una cerca y le da un golpe en el cuello del perro, matándolo instantáneamente.

Un reportero que se encontraba cerca observa la escena y corre a entrevistar al valiente nio mexicano y escribe en su libreta:
“VALIENTE FAN DE LAS CHIVAS SALVA A SU AMIGUITO DE LAS FAUCES DE AGRESIVO PERRO”

a.. Yo no le voy a las chivas, replica el pequeo héroe.
b.. Perdona, como estamos en Guadalajara asumí que le ibas a las chivas.

Entonces escribió: “VALIENTE FAN DEL ATLAS SALVA A SU COMPAÑERO DE TERRIBLE ATAQUE”

a.. Tampoco le voy al Atlas le dice el nio…
b.. Asumí que estando en Guadalajara le irías a las Chivas o al Atlas. Entonces, ¿A quién le vas?
a.. Le voy al América le dice el nio…

Entonces el reportero escribió: “CHILANGO MANIATICO ASESINA A INDEFENSA MASCOTA DE FAMILIA JALISCIENSE

Your name in biscuits…

mexicobiscuits

Make your own here.

The lucha libre provided a fantastic backdrop to yet another great night. Dramatis personae included: Los Técnicos: Sita, Hannah, Berta y Fernando and los Rudos: José, Aldo and me… There were cameras there so hopefully I’ll get emailed an image or two soon. We started off in El Rincón de la Doa, hit the coliseo and then were swiftly transported (thanks, Berta) to Los Famosos Equipales for a few Nalgas alegres and cantinera singalong of El Rey and other classics. José (barely) managed to fit 6 people in his VW beetle. However he now has brakes so it could have been much worse… and now to work… happy biscuit making. NB. no W shaped biscuits. For shame…

The weather…

We’re in the midst of a thunderstorm right now. I’ve just unplugged the laptop and am blogging on batteries… Hopefully the phone lines won’t take a direct hit. I had a go at taking some shots of the lightning from yesterday’s storm but it was still too light, there’s a few moody shots of the barrio on flickr (click the picture). 100_6586
Had a nice day working from home on a translation for a movie script and driving round with young Obdulio… he was round last night with a special surprise guest, which was grand. Back to business tomorrow though and off to the lucha again hopefully.

Here’s a weather badge that’ll tell you what the weather’s doing at the minute over here. I’d put it in the sidebar, but they don’t seem to have any tasteful/firefox compatible ones. So until I make 10 more posts, feel free to scroll down to it before it disappears for good.

Weme

To make up for some sparse blogging in the last few days, have a pictures and text extravaganza:

If you wish to do this Letter Meme, comment, and I’ll give you a letter. Then, post 10 words starting with that letter which are important to you in your journal.

gwyn:
Go on then Flash, assign me a letter. I’ve been sorely lacking on the blog-inspiration front of late and maybe I just need a meme to get back on track… Unless I get an X. Regards

techiebabe:
I award you a “W” – prompted by your middle name. Enjoy!

I thank you, Flash. And thus it begins…

West Country

The bit of England I’m from. Green, verdant, rainy, green, rainy, verdant Somerset. Home to cider, The Wurzels, the Quantock Hills, and almost completely free of football teams, what more could you ask for? And the accent has got to be one of the best on the planet. Along with south Wales, natch.

Wales– When you’ve got a name like mine people assume you’re Welsh. Gwyn means white/fair in Welsh and I’ve recently taken to translating it as Guero in Spanish. Gwyn’s a bugger to pronounce if you’re a native Spanish speaker though. Oo-eeen is the usual, but last night I met a tapatia round Victor and Jana’s who could pronounce it perfectly and who spoke French like a native too. Anyroad, back to Wales, of course me Mum’s Welsh with O Levels in it and everything, and I went to University there for the best part of 4 years. Wales has a lot going for it in terms of natural beauty. WWII and decline in heavy industry scarred a fair section of it, and you wouldn’t find me out in Neath after dark, but overall if you haven’t visited Cymru, hie thee hither. Bring waterproofs.

Wine. Not just the grapey stuff ((Red) Zinfandel with its peppery overtones, please, Sommelier). Vino in Mexican Spanish refers to tequila too, and what with my wife’s academic endeavours the agave-based beverage plays a fairly large role in the house. Todo con medida, nada con exceso. come fruta y verduras, your home may be at risk if you do not keep up the payements…

Web Design. I design web pages. Just like this one you’re reading here. Tell your friends. Here’s my latest creation, which I’m pretty proud of but haven’t run past the clients yet.

Well lit photography

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For reasons I still can’t fathom, my camera (I?) sucks at taking photos in low light conditions. First off, it can’t autofocus then it tries to shorten the shutter speed so unless you’re careful with the tripod you get blurry messes. If you set it up manually it forgets the settings every 2 minutes and you have to start again. Hence my predelictation for outdoor photos on sunny days. Happily I’m in the right country for that kind of thing.

Wrestling (Mexican Lucha Libre)

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Like some crazed surreal violent pantomime. I defy you to go and not love it. Absolutely nothing like it’s soulless, brash, commercial American counterpart. I’m heading there again on Tuesday if last night’s organizing with Victor, Berta and Javier holds up in the cold, harsh, sober light of day.

Whistling. Have you noticed that when you whistle to yourself, someone else will start whistling shortly after once you finish? For some reason I can also remember the first time I managed to whistle a tune, I was 6 or 7 and walking to Kingston School and it was the theme to the Mr. Men. I’m not forcing you to read this, you know…

Waldo’s mart– Mexico’s answer to Poundland/99cents store, with everything costing a nice round 13 pesos. For some reason this is the only place in Guadalajara that sells decent chocolate and it’s where we got our fine set of Scooby Doo coffee mugs. How much you ask? Why, 13 pesos each.

Words– Love’em. I’m not a huge conversationalist, but I’m fascinated by language. There’s a post about my favourite words if you fancy it. An interesting thing about Spanish is there are very few words beginning with W. The sound exists but you use ‘gu’ to write it. Most W words in Spanish are imports from other languages. Hence the W section of the dictionary being half a page on ‘El Walkie-talkie, ‘Whisky, ‘el Windsurfista and a couple of others.

Mexico. Cos if you invert the W it’s an M, and in case you never noticed I adore this country, the good and the bad. And that’s not something I say about many places. While I’m at it, don’t forget, no buying American products tomorrow (May day) which should annoy Bush and show how important mexicanos are for the gringo economy. Another thing that’s going to piss him off no end will be the imminent legalisation of small quantities of drugs for personal use in Mexico, showing common sense prevailing in Mexican politics. Nice one, Vicente.

I asked Sita for her favourite 10 Ws and off the top of her head she said: Whodunnit, witch hazel, whatever, wannabe, wetback, wine, whining, whether, window, weeping willow. And then the word ‘was’ she says, because you can’t live without it. Bless her, that’s more interesting and intriguing than all mine combined. She should get a blog…

If Stephen Colbert mysteriously disappears, we’ll know why…

It’s worth watching the 2nd section too, where he says, this administration is soaring, not sinking… they’re not “rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic¨. They’re rearranging the deckchairs on the Hindenberg.

Este guey si tiene huevos…

EDIT: May 4th, 2006: YouTube’s taken this down apparently “At the request of C-Span” I’m not convinced… more at BoingBoing

Coming soon…

Regular blogging. And a fully-fledged, catalog-driven, GDL-based, heavy-machinery-rental webpage. I’ve got tons of ideas for this one… it’s going to be good.

And don’t forget to boycott gringo products/ companies on May 1st… That’s why we’re going to CostCo on Saturday… And apparently we’ve got Monday off, cos of May Day, or the Dia de Trabajo round these parts, whereupon no one works.

Kiddystare

Lots on at work. A good thing and no mistake. This morning I did a photoshoot round the kindergarten. There’s some lovely pix but I’m hesitant to post any to flickr without a release form, so here I’ve protected their little identities with a subtle photoshop effect:

Kiddies

Your cut-out-and-keep guide to my weekend

100_2626Yesterday: To the baratillo, James, to find a lucha libre mask for Fernando and a microwave oven. It was too hot by half, but I’m well fond of wandering round Mexican markets and can even judge which aisle to go down by casting an eye for obstacles such as women with prams, queues for birria and machete-wielding coconut salesmen. A half success of sorts. I found out there’s a lucha libre spectacular in the bull ring on Sunday that might be worth a visit, I found a microwave oven for 25 bucks, but when I tried to get back to that particular stand it had either morphed into a blenders and kitchen sink stall or been raptured up. Never mind, in the town centre they’re on sale for 45 bucks or so new. And they deliver, which is important because I had visions of being discovered passed out on the wrong side of town in the afternoon heat with a microwave on my chest. On the only day of the year I didn’t have health insurance…

DVD purchases yesterday included: El Mar Adentro (Spanish film about a bloke in a wheelchair), Zapata (Hagiography of the famous revolutionary), Sin City (seen it before (4 lulus or thereabouts), but could happily watch it again), Lucky number Sleven (mixed reviews for this gangster film) and Hostal (Tarantino’s latest outing). I’m not 100% on whether they’ll all work cos I found a 5 peso (Fiddy cent) (30 pee) DVD store with no TV to test them on, but at that price, I’ll take my chances. Sometimes I’m not convinced they’re really originals at all…

On the MP3 player at the time: Boagworld– Pragmatic Accessibility, Total Podcastrophe #11, Mark Kermode’s film reviews from Friday and CD1 of Massive Attacks’ recent Best Of. I’ve got some crappy short headphones with a cable that doesn’t quite reach my pocket. So I went round with the player stuffed under my T-Shirt on my shoulder parrot-style, affixed with the ‘gentle perspiration” of my skin. It’s a wonder it still works… Anyroad, my pedometer (pace counter thing, (pedo means fart in Spanish, cue marketing nightmare…)), racked up 22,000 steps yesterday which makes up for Saturday’s shuffling round the house and trip to the air-conditioned cinema when the heat got too much.

We also got a fan from Gigante and barbecued up a storm again in the evening. Chorizo is the new bacon. The VH1 were showing Kubrick’s Clockwork Orange (4.5 Lulus). It was slightly edited, but even then was great to watch again. Such a powerful film, the kind that provokes discussion straight afterwards. If you’re not headed straight to bed… I read on the IMDB that the title is from when Anthony Burgess was in Borneo and saw Orangutans. Orang= man, Utan = of the forest. Hence clockwork man, which is what Alex ends up as when he’s reprogrammed. Seems plausible enough…

Today: Renegotiating terms @ see-nay-sco-pee-oh since I’ve finished the whole Camino Real thing. Jose’s round this avo for a briefing on how tomorrow’s photo shoot at centro nueva era’s going to happen. Life is good. Stu (click for nostaligic look at how site looked 2 years ago) complained that he couldn’t tell arse from elbow of what I’m up to from my blog. Something about cars breaking down and genteel ladies in photos… Give us a Skype and I’ll elaborate, Sr. Capstick. Him’n’Anne’re yoghurt weaving in a hippy commune in NZ right now… To each their own.

Recent Comments

Today is the lazy day I’ve been yearning for. Monkey Dust in the morning. That Spike Lee heist film in the afternoon and further R & R for the evening. If all goes according to plan. Last night Sarah and Mark saved us from our where-to-go quandry by inviting us round for specially imported Crianza Tempranillo and guac/cheesy/tapenade snacks. Perfect. Thanks.

In geekery news, I just added a new “Recent Heated Debate” section to the sidebar which shows where the latest comments are and who they’re from. The names fade to white as they age, which is a nice touch, I reckon. I’m considering a 3-column makeover too. Comment away to see PHP in action.

This is the dawning of the age of baked spuds

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Ice cream in the shade in Ajijic, Jalisco

I’m not looking for sympathy here, and I know it doesn’t sound like hard work, but eating out, sight-seeing and cocktails every evening soon takes it out of you. It’s been a really fun week between Easter with its attendant activities and barbecues and travel, even fitting in an hour or so of lucha libre, but it’s time for a break of sorts. I could probably have handled it all before I turned 31, pero ya no…

Anyroad, yesterday Sally, Minnie and I did the obligatory Chapala, Ajijic trip, this time with added open house visiting goodness. There’s photos if you click around enough after clicking the photo above. Some very nice, newly-built places with jacuzzis, lake views, and neighbours from Ontario that won’t cost you much more than 275,000 of your Earth dollars. I’ve still yet to manage to drive back home from the chapala/airport road without taking the wrong turn off though and touring either the netherparts of Central Guadalajara or the Perifery delights of Gwod’s ring road. One day… It doesn’t help that if you want to get to the house you have to follow signs for cities hundreds of miles away like Puerto Vallarta and Nogales neither… Eeh well.

Sita’s had some great news on the academic/ financial front, email her for more info. Suffice to say we should be able to stay in MX longer than originally planned and we’re celebrating tonight. Not sure where yet though. I think the only place I could really handle would have to be an oxygen bar. And not if it’s even slightly crowded. Sometime this weekend we’re also going to celebrate by buying a lovely new kitchen bin which won’t overflow once you’ve put an avocado skin and a water bottle in. And Sally’s treating us to a microwave oven too so we can enter into a glorious new age of nachos and cheese, quesadillas and baked spuds. Thanks Sally & Martin : )

Also this weekend, time to stock up on DVDs again. Though I’ve just got myself season II of Monkey Dust which is proving to be as ascerbic and entertaining as ever. Any recommendations? (comments below, preferably recent releases or Mexican classics, cheers). Proof (2006)’s been getting good reviews, anyone seen it? It’s got my tocaya in it, Gwyneth Paltrow…

Alrighty, regards, I’m off to do my election sloganeering. The best one I saw yesterday was “He’s not a liar, He’s not a cheat, He’s Alberto Ramirez”, your candidate for Tlajomulco or some such.

And your pun for the day: Da Vinci Code II via B3ta

Will post later… probably

Best social engineering in a spam email title ever? That’ll be the one I received today titled: “Look at this email” flogging some stock market scam.

Genius

L.A.’s redeeming features Part I

Next time we get to L.A. we have to pass by The Bunny Museum… Apparently Martin had a crash-course in rabbit feeding before Sally came over here. One day he reported they hadn’t eaten their food. On closer investigation Sally discovered two highly non-plussed lagomorphs staring at a food bowl full of ultra-absorbant litter tray pellets. Hopefully they’re ok…

Apparently it’s hot in Puerto Vallarta. Who’d’ve thunk it? And Sita’s been on the sweinesmaltz (spelling? It’s some bizarre teutonic lard product) at the German restaurant there again.

Erm, the car’s back in action. And I got a “Special Rate” so I come back again. Hopefully I won’t be back any time soon. I watched my subtitles on the film I translated yesterday. Thrilling it was. There were a few typos. desings, not designs for example… but overall it’s a great feeling watching your electronic endeavours going out into the world. I’m going to get a copy too.

And the Lucha Libre is really happening through the miracle of blog-mail. Whereupon you blog who you want to ring you and they call you. Cheers, Carlos, See you in the Fuente. Mine’s a Campo Viejo…

EDIT: and here’s something I cooked up today between watching short Uruguayan films, website overhauls for nutritionists and translating. It’s a Flash intro for a friend’s site who moonlights as a DJ. I didn’t have any of the original files for the graphics so they’re a little low-budget and ripped from teh intarwebs but the fly sounds are from an open source audio site and I mashed them together all on my own. I’ll never get my head around actionscript though. Stop (); It’s all practice…